Time To Tell Chronographs for collectors

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The true story of Universal Genève, 3rd and final part: Polerouter, Le couturier de la montre, chronometers, etc.

jpynson |  4 February 2024

The true story of Universal Genève, 3rd and final part: Polerouter, Le couturier de la montre, chronometers, etc.

3.Polerouter: an iconic watch Universal Polarouter presented at Basel 1955 Universal's Polerouter is without doubt the best-known model from the Geneva-based brand, and the one that has been produced in the greatest number of versions. The design is by the famous creator Gérald Genta. The distinctive feature of this watch is...


The true story of Universal Genève, part 2: chronographs

jpynson |  26 January 2024

The true story of Universal Genève, part 2: chronographs

Universal is one of 8 Swiss manufacturers who, in the 1940s and 1950s, produced their own chronograph calibers. And some of these chronographs are legendary today...

Universal chronographs The first Universal pocket chronographs were usually fitted with Le Phare calibers, the famous Le Locle manufacturer that supplied many other companies. Gradually, Martel calibers came into use, particularly for wrist chronographs, but Jeanneret-Lémania calibers were also available. Universal chronograph, c. 1920, Martel calibre Universal chronograph, c. 1920, Jeanneret/Lémania...


The true story of Perret & Berthoud, manufacture des montres Universal. Part one: history

jpynson |  18 January 2024

The true story of Perret & Berthoud, manufacture des montres Universal. Part one: history

Most online information about Universal has no credible source, and false information is repeated from site to site. This article took several months to compile, and was based on one of the largest private historical databases on Swiss watchmaking. All historical sources used are referenced.

The true story of Perret & Berthoud, manufacture des montres Universal. Part one: history By Joel Pynson "We have to get to the point where customers demand not just a watch, but a Universal from their watchmaker.” Raoul Perret For many watch collectors, Universal is one of the finest Swiss brands....


The “third” Swiss dive watch: Cornavin P.810

jpynson |  8 September 2022

The “third” Swiss dive watch: Cornavin P.810

By Joël Pynson The standard of the diving wristwatch was defined in the early 1950s: a waterproof steel case, a black dial with luminescent numerals and indexes, and a rotating bezel to indicate the dive time and respect the decompression stops. There were of course many waterproof watches before this date,...

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