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Joël Pynson
October 2024
Update : November 2024, August 2025
- Rendez-vous
This extremely rare watch dates back to 1946, and it's very surprising. It features a tact alarm: at the time set by the crown and displayed on a small dial at 9 o'clock, a small auxiliary crown at 9 o'clock starts to turn and warns the wearer. It appeared only once in the watchmaking press of the time, and was certainly only produced in very limited quantities.
The Rendez-vous name was later used by Ernest Borel for classic alarm watches equipped with Ébauches SA's Alertic movement.
- Cocktail
This is Ernest Borel's best-known model. Launched in 1953, its success was immediate. The watch is equipped with a small 8.75-line movement with center seconds. The minute and seconds hands are replaced by transparent colored discs which, as they rotate, create attractive kaleidoscopic patterns. From the outset, there were numerous models for both men and women with a variety of motifs. Remarkably, the back of the watch is transparent to reveal the movement.
In 1954, the Cocktail model was the subject of a 3D advertising campaign: green/red glasses were supplied with the magazines so that the advertising could be admired in 3D!
1954
The Cocktail model was produced throughout the 20th century, and is still in the brand's catalog today.
1954
Following this success, other manufacturers launched watches with moving dials. These included Delbana with its Voltige model launched in 1954, and Invicta with its Graphomatic model from 1955. Ernest Borel's patents were disputed, in particular because of an earlier patent dating from 1950, which Ernest Borel and Delabana eventually licensed [22].
- Datoptic
On a wristwatch, reading the date is not always easy due to the small size of the numerals in their aperture. Rolex was well aware of this, and in 1952 patented its famous "Cyclops" magnifier glued to the crystal [23]. In 1954, Henry Du Pasquier patented a magnifying glass set directly onto the dial aperture [24]. The Datoptic model was born in 1955, and has been available in steel, plated and gold.
1955
However, the laws of optics are clear: the magnification effect also depends on the distance between the magnifying glass and the object. Being very close to the date disc, Ernest Borel's magnifier is not as effective as Rolex's, and the Datoptic model had a relatively short career.
- Society
This elegant automatic watch in steel or plated, launched in 1956, has the distinctive feature of having a "drowned" crown, i.e. integrated into the case or bezel. The dial also has a mirror effect. The movement is equipped with the Incastar setting device.
- Flash
Curious wristwatches appeared at the end of the 1950s: they were equipped with a small lamp that could be switched on at will! The first was launched in 1956 by Ad. Allemann Fils, under the name Tourist Everlight. The watch featured a small bulb above the 12 o'clock index, which could be switched on by a push-button located on the side of the case at 2 o'clock [25].
1956
In 1958, the famous Fabrique Ernest Borel launched its own Flash model, based on its own patents and a slightly different principle [26]. The bulb was placed under the dial in a plastic housing running all the way around the periphery of the dial. When the push-button at 2 o'clock was pressed, the entire dial was illuminated. The battery could be recharged with a single cell, providing 6 months to a year's operation. The watch was available in steel or plated.
- Monaco
For the company's centenary in 1959, Ernest Borel launched several models, one of which, the Monaco, was quite original, with its asymmetrical case and drowned crown. It was an automatic model with a gold-plated case. Ernest Borel also presented other asymmetrical models in 1960.
- Space Gem
This is the last notable model from Ernest Borel's golden age. It's an automatic watch with date, featuring a case water-resistant to 200m, in steel or plated. There are high-frequency chronometer versions (36,000 vph) of this model.
See also: Aubry Frères-Ciny (coming soon) and the current Ernest Borel website
[22] Patent CH 284 141 from 1950, patent CH 296061 from Henry DuPasquier from 1952 and Delbana patent CH 311 299 from 1953.
[23] Patent CH 298953
[24] Patent CH 306108
[25] Journal Suisse d’Horlogerie, 1957, 3, p. 132
[26] Revue internationale d’Horlogerie, 1958, 4, p. 7
Notes :
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